#BATTERY CABLE REPAIR SPLICE KIT INSTALL#

Contact customer service at 80 to request a certificate. Note: 3M products offered on a government contract that require country of origin representation must be certified by 3M Trade Compliance. Some products contain imported components. That is good to know.The designation that a product is Manufactured in the USA means the product undergoes substantial transformation in one of our U.S. I read that these dual-purpose AGM batteries are drop-in replacements for flooded starter batteries and work with all modern alternators, but I’ll double-check. My load is small the battery is meant to be more of a fallback that I’ll use carefully. I’m looking at battery monitors to protect against overcharging from the solar, and will have some sort of low voltage monitor and / or cutoff. I’ll have 15A fuses on both the connection from the solar charge controller and the battery, and on my load connections from the controller. It comes up as a “fit” for my vehicle in the product finder on various sites. Thanks you haven’t already done so check it for fit, both size and terminal style. Make sure nothing about your set up can interrupt the connection between battery and alternator while the car is running, the battery must remain connected when the engine is running to snub high voltage spikes originating from the alternator, to protect electronics, control modules, etc. Disconnect the ground first, reconnect it last (so when you’re wrenching the positive terminal or any lead and the tool touches ground your life doesn’t get too interesting). Remove metal jewelry and wear eye protection when working around batteries. If you’re going to be drawing on the battery with the car not running you’ll probably want an auto cut-off set for ~ 25% charge (so you can restart).

#BATTERY CABLE REPAIR SPLICE KIT INSTALL#

This one may be fine and at worst would need to adjust your voltage regulator or install a different one. If you haven’t already done so check it for fit, both size and terminal style.Ĭheck its chemistry and charging voltage requirements, all are some flavor of lead-acid but can vary a bit in maximum charging voltage spec. It sounds like you may have found a battery of the same configuration, will assume the cable issue is moot for now. The positive cable looks pretty straightforward and easy to replace with a longer read soldered connections are more brittle in this type of environment b/c they’re rigid and can’t flex with vibrations. I think the main issue is the negative cable. The current battery requires replacing b/c 1) it’s worn out, and 2) it’s a standard starting battery that won’t work for my me, the negative battery cable looks like it’s more of a harness that goes to the back of the engine compartment with several leads going to different places in the engine compartment.ĭo you think a longer version of that cable can be manufactured easily? Or is it more a matter of adding an extension to a stock cable? The biggest problem is that it has terminals on the wrong side.

The battery I like (which has the terminals on the wrong side) is a dual-purpose battery recommended for trolling / starting applications and has a large RC. I have not found a dual-purpose battery with a decent reserve capacity that is the correct size and has the correct terminals (24R/F). So, I’m looking at dual-purpose batteries. Has enough CCA to start the car (3.3L engine, manufacturer recommends something like 620 CCA min).I have not found a true deep cycle battery that: I know that a true deep cycle is the best choice for a solar setup, but I definitely want a 1-battery system.

Battery cable repair splice kit